Sunday, 23 August 2009

Chic in the Blink of an Eye


James Dobson (aka Jimmy D) as interviewed in today's Herald on Sunday

Savvy retailers are creating a sales storm by ditching long-term leases to spring up in surprise locations, then close down days later.

Not to be confused with clearance shops, the idea behind these "now you see them, now you don't" retail manifestations is to pop up in an unexpected space, create a buzz by word-of-mouth marketing, then leave.

James Dobson, designer of fashion label Jimmy D and co-owner of the Children of Vision boutique in Auckland, describes the temporary shops as mini concept stores, and thinks the term "pop-up" is sometimes misused as a "cool" way of describing something that is simply a sale store.

In its original sense, he says there is "a kind of art direction that goes beyond a rack of clothes in a cheap space for a limited time".

Dobson speaks of a purity to this form of retailing and an aesthetic of using simple, inexpensive materials creatively for fittings and fixtures.

"More than ever I think people aren't dazzled by flashy, overly slick spaces. Internationally, labels and retailers like Comme des Garcons, Komakino, and London's Convenience Store have proven you can find high-end clothing off the beaten track, in deliberately lo-fi surroundings."

And the pop-up store phenomenon is flourishing as recessionistas seek less showy shopping experiences.

"I think the recession has made people re-evaluate how they shop, and pop-up stores feel more independent and less ostentatious.

A pop-up store Dobson organised recently called The Darkroom lasted only three days, offering pieces from his label as well as from Zambesi, Nom*d, Lonely Hearts, Cybèle and Deborah Sweeney at significant mark downs.

And they offer the thrill of the hunt, says Dobson. "When you venture away from large flagship stores to smaller, harder-to-find boutiques, you are probably going to find a piece that is limited and more exclusive."

He promoted The Darkroom through word-of-mouth, contacting customer databases and using social media such as Twitter and Facebook.

"We cram a lot of sales into a very small amount of time, there are lower margins to be made, but they are always very successful, and it's a good injection of cash flow," Dobson says.

He hasn't found it tricky to rent sites short-term either. "It was just a case of finding a space we liked that was pretty much a raw shell of an environment that we could easily pop up in and then getting in touch with the landlord and seeing if they were keen to rent it out for a few days. A few said no, but we got the best space in the end."

** this article is abridged - to read the whole piece, click here